Classic Cobra Control Cable Kit Instructions

by Tom Holtey © TopKayaker GeoOdyssey 2018 www.topkayaker.com

These instructions are for the Classic Cobra Control Cable Kit, please print or view this page as your instructions for this kit. It applies to older Cobra brand kayaks; Cobra Tourer (not most recent versions), Eliminator and Expedition, circa 1990s and some years into the 21^st century. May also apply to other Cobra kayaks or custom rudder jobs. Read below and use links in blue text below to see what some of the items that I am referring to look like.

Kit Contents:

B = 8 feet Bungee Cord

A = 4 Bungee Cord Hooks

F = 20 feet Utility Cord, 1/8 in.

C = 6 feet 3/4 In. Webbing Strap

D = 2 3/4 inch Super Locks

E = 2 3/4 in.Tri Glides

Probably more than enough, but gives options for multiple configuration patterns discussed below.

Tools Needed: Sharp Scissors, Heat Source (lighter, candle, torch), Screw Driver or Hex Tool, Wrench.

You may need a Rivet Tool.
If needed you can use stainless steel Self Tapping Screws. A dab of Sealant can be used whenever you apply a fitting.

Cobra Rudder Control Cables Install Process: Secure the bungee cord(s) to tension the foot peddles, from one or two Strap Eyes located forward on the deck, to each foot pedal. Use knots or hooks as desired. You can configure this in any way you like. See the photo of the green Tourer below for V pattern, the white Expedition at top for long side pattern and the blue Eliminator to right for short side pattern as examples. Cobra has configured factory rudders in all three of these styles over the years. You might do this in a temporary manner that will allow you re-adjust as needed.

Trim the bungee cord and gently melt ends with a flame. Overhand knots may be simpler and stronger than the Bungee Cord Hooks.

The bungee hooks are easy to use however, slip the collar on the bungee first, insert bungee into hook base, slide collar onto hook base to engage the teeth. I find that channel lock pliers help me with this.

You will next assemble your adjustment straps using 3/4 Inch Web Strap Products. You will trim the strap, melt screw holes, connect the super locks and finish ends with tri-glides. See strap related videos below. Fasten a super lock to each foot pedal, to the outboard edge, with a very short section of web strap doubled over into a loop and screwed to each foot pedal. Two longer sections of strap will be threaded through each super lock. The length should allow for the tallest and shortest paddlers to reposition the foot control cross bar. Finish each strap with a tri-glide to make a small web strap loop on the end. This loop will be used to tie the cordage to with and Over Hand Knot Loop.

Related Strap Videos (ignore the hatch stuff, all principles of working with strap is the same):

Pro Hatch Repair Part 2 of 3 Cutting and sealing strap ends and melting screw holes.

Pro Hatch Repair Part 3 of 3 Working with tri-glides and buckles (applicable to super locks).

Arrange the foot control cords down the right and left sides of the kayak. Slip the end of the foot control cords through the guides as seen on the gunwales in the photo of the green Cobra Tourer Cockpit above. While the guides above are white, they are most often black and located directly next to strap eyes. The path of the control cables, from the feet to the rudder, should be fairly straight without any sharp turns. Strap Eyes can be substituted as guides if needed.

Fasten cords to the wings of the rudder and to the loops on the aft end of the foot control straps. Use metal or plastic Rudder Shackles (if supplied) or tie directly to the wings of the rudder. Shackles are not needed for adjustment straps. See the Cobra Rudder Knot diagram below. Or… You can tie any kind of knot you like. A bowline knot or tight over hand loop knot should do well. Adjust and trim as needed.

Finally test the rudder system on dry land. Sit in the kayak to locate the foot brace bars (reposition as needed) and adjust the foot control straps to custom fit your leg length. The pedals should be tipped slightly aft. Make sure the rudder turns right and left smoothly by using the foot controls. Re-adjust as needed. Be careful about trimming any cords or strap until you have tested. Try to assemble in a temporary manner, until you are quite confident about the final assembly.

When the dry run test is done you are ready for a water trial. Test the kayak on the water, close to shore in calm weather, before you go and depend on the rudder system in more challenging conditions. When you have proven it is fully functional you are ready for all normal kayak conditions.

Use links below for basic how-to info:

Basics of Strap-eyes, Rivets, and Well-nuts

Contact Cobra Kayaks or TopKayaker as needed. Copyright TopKayaker GeoOdyssey 2018

Restoration of Classic Dagger Kayak Seats

by Tom Holtey, copyright TopKayaker GeoOdyssey 2019

The seats of older Dagger kayaks can be easily fixed up. While these instructions will largely address Dagger recreational kayaks such as the Blackwater and Zydeco as well as the Bayou and Delta, this will also address many Dagger sea touring kayaks, such as the Vesper and Seeker, indeed any Dagger kayak with a plastic molded textured seat surface (hills and valleys, see photos below).

This page will address old style fabric seat covers that fall apart when they
age. It is assumed that your underlying plastic seat structure, molded as part of the hull (left), or a separate seat structure (right) secured into the hull, is still sound and in good shape.

The original Dagger seat pads for these older kayaks are no longer available from Dagger. Some Dagger kayaks had a one piece seat cover (top photo); others had separate back and bottom pads (use links to left). TopKayaker stocks a generic seat pad set that is compatible with all these older Dagger rec kayaks (top left photo), as well as many Dagger touring kayaks (top right photo and bottom photo). We offer a variety of compatible Seat Pads in our www.topkayaker.com online shop. These instructions will address those seat pads that we have the best success with.

 The first step is to secure the seat strap. Your original seat back cover is probably integrated with the seat adjustment strap in some fashion, probably through “belt loops” on the rear side (see photo to left). It is crucial that the seat strap be secured well to the seat back structure. The old slip-on seat back cover performed this function. It will be fairly easy to re-mount the seat strap. You can re-use the original seat strap if possible (photo to right). Some seat backs had slots on the aft side. If so you can use these slots to secure the seat strap and ignore the next steps.

You will need the 1 in. Footmans Loops, 2 pack. I suggest that you get your stainless steel screws and locking nuts at your local Hardware store. Use the shortest possible screws. Use pointed self tapping screws only for hollow molded seat structures. If you need to replace the seat strap you can use 1 Inch Web Strap Products or the Seat Strap Kit. (Contact us about working with webbing.)
 
Once you have the seat strap secured to the seat back support, the kayak is essentially functional again, ready to use as is. Bear in mind that in the early days of kayaking we did not have any seat pads. Now with the strap secured the seat is ready to apply new padded covers to it.

The Seat Back Pad that we have been having success with for these older Dagger kayaks is the Tour Backrest Pad. It is a strap-on seat back pad. See photos left and right. The Seat Bottom cushion that we have been having success with for these older Dagger kayaks is the Tour Seat Bottom Pad. It is also a strap-on seat pad. See photo below for the finished result.

This Tour Seat Pad Set is a long proven fix for older Dagger brand kayaks.

There are other Seat Pad options and Kayak Comfort Enhancements, such as the Kayak Over-Seat, and the YakPads Paddle Saddle Seat, but the Tour Set above is tested, the most popular and most successful for the majority of older Dagger recreational kayaks and many Dagger sea touring kayaks, all with a textured seat surface (hills and valleys), circa 1990s, up to about 2005.

Self-adhesive pads are not recommended for these textured seat structures. A self-adhesive pad will bridge the valleys leaving gaps underneath that will cause the pad to eventually split down those lines as well as collect dirt, debris, water, and other icky stuff like spiders and ant nests. Such an application may even peel off prematurely.

Some Dagger sea touring kayaks have a seat bottom structure, with a smooth surface, that has a single valley down the center line, as seen in the photo to the left. A self-adhesive pad, such as the Techlift Seat Pad, might be applied after being cut in half down the center line. A thinner pad, about one quarter of in inch might be needed for very tight fitting sea kayaks. The New Town Back Pad can be used as a self-adhesive back pad on the smooth back support surface. Self-Adhesive Close Cell Foam can be applied to any smooth surface seat back or bottom. The advantage of self-adhesive pads is that they stay put during a wet exit, a great benefit to those who practice sea kayak skills.

Some Dagger sea kayaks, and/or white water kayaks may be outfitted with a textured seat bottom structure and a textured back support, maybe a back band. A Back Band (not fully addressed on this page) can be used to replace the original back support.

Modern Dagger kayaks will be much different. Use these links to Dagger Zone Seating Components, as well as other Dagger White Water, Touring and Rec Outfitting items.

Use the links in blue text above for info and options. GeoOdyssey Publications. www.TopKayaker.Com
Restoration of Dagger Kayak Seats, by Tom Holtey, copyright TopKayaker GeoOdyssey 2019.